2010 F150: Unit will flash blue three times with remote (push lock), Red light turns on, then orange light, Orane light goes out, then repeats red on + orange on, then ends with three red flashes. Seems like its trying to work, but no crank. Accessories turn on, radio, etc.
I had this unit working last night, but in the process of cleaning up wiring (cutting loose wires and taping all connections, the unit stopped working. I have repreogrammed since as I master reset, C1 and D1 active, a1-a11 on, everything else off - including D2.
I removed all not required wiring and have the following:
4 pin: 12 Volt and and ground: Verified 12V w Multi meter
20 Pin: rx / tx / and yellow ignition. Verified 12 Volts on ignitiion wire. Using the FOR1 T harness on this
CAN wiring: Verified 5 Volts here: 2.35V and 2.5V (Blue lights when using Key Fob)
Ignition plug: I am tapping into vehicle ignition plug and wiring to top section of FOR1 T harness. I cut off the T harness connectors wire since I have an 2010, but splice into the 12V / Ignition / Starter / accesories of the T harness to use the diodes. I checked the diodes for increased resistance. I know the T harness is not technically compatible with 2010 F150, but 3 less splices at top of the ignition barrel and diodes already soldered in.
My troubleshooting: I ran a separate wire from the yellow/blue start wire and couldn't track a votlage increase when triggering unit remote start (Lock 3 times). I am at a loss and looking for insight on where to look. I feel like I have checked every connection, but assuming it has to be one of them. Maybe a damaged plug at the unit...could I have shorted something and smoked the unit in all the testing?
*********** Follow up ******
I removed all tape I had apllied, took each connection apart and re did. pushed in all connections and the unit started. Tried taping things back up by the unit and it stopped working. Found issue in D wiring plug as 12V ignition wire pulled out. All the testing and pusing and pulling broke the wire.
Respliced a new D port from a different unit I bought. It works...Yeah. Tape up top portion of wires, making sure ot test the unit every few areas. Unit stopped working. This was the driver of most of my problems prior to the last one.
****** DO NOT ASSUME THE T HARNESS HAS GOOD CONNECTIONS - THEY ARE NOT SOLDERED !!!!
Two connection in the T harness between the ignitiion barrel was bad, specifically the ground was not making connections. In the process of fixing that, another connection that was barely hanging on slipped out of the connector. Any bending in this are is libel to pull out a wire.
Re spliced the two connections in the T harness and all seems good.
Final take: be careful on T harness connections. when you are using a continuity testing, I unplugged the harness to check , which would get the connection back together. It finally clicked when I actually tried using the key to start at the Alarm light would flash rapidly that it had to be at the ignition barrel.
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Thank you
